Moved

I moved to WordPress as I couldn't upload photos to blogger and WordPress also seems better managed.

Http://salvagesewing.wordpress.com

Just for me

Nobody reads this so I can keep updating just for me!  But the time sure went fast! Two weeks already since my last 'daily' update? Whoops!

I took a break making a tiered petticoat slash hoop skirt to make my partner a button up shirt. I decided to retry a pattern I hate over using the one I had for them (but somehow currently can't find!).

It's almost done. Just hem and buttonholes and buttons.  I get to try my new machine at buttonholes!  Basically that means I get to work out if my old machine would have done them if I didn't pop a spring out of it over a year ago haha.

On the bright side that spring got me handsewing. So there's that. I enjoy it now!  It's funny how you enjoy things once you actually properly learn how to do it. 

I feel being taught really vague slash awful methods for handsewing (my mother tried go teach me but she never even replaced her own buttons so she didn't know either) really made me hate the chore.

I don't even do the knot method I was taught, (it always caused a rat's nest -my mother just told me to trim the little rat's nest! See what I mean?) I just do back stitches now to secure my work. I can get a long seam done by hand in less than an hour.  It's a lovely chore in linen.

Speaking of my mourning blouse is also stalled.one day I'll finish something again!

I pulled out my coat I was making last month - the hounds tooth one. I'll be finishing that next week I think. :). I'm a lot closer to done than I realized.  I already have all the interfacing sewn in and all the parts ready to go.just need to put it together. :)

Hmm. Probably while I'm working on the Red Carpet Dress I'll also start another button up for me. I've perfected my block for that so a quick machine sew will make me very happy :)

I did splurge and get four new patterns yesterday.  One in the wrong size darn it all. I never remember to check and it's because I'm so skinny I think. If I was a 16 I'd be used to checking by now cause everything is marketed towards me already.

Anyway mostly basics as I do except one child's costume pattern I fit into (shut up!).

I measured my partner and they're 5'4" and I'm definitely 3" shorter than them so my solid 5'1" status is firm.

Now where are those heels...

Daily Updates

Since this blog is solely for me, I can post any kind of update I want.

Little content? Tons of photos? Authors choice!

Why not use a notebook then?  No idea; I just don't find myself writing in them often. I tried. I managed a couple weeks. Which seems the samr as my online journals to be fair. maybe I'm just bad at record keeping.

ANYWAY

I have been sewing since my keyboard broke. I didn't really finish anything but I did put fourteen handsewing hours into a black linen mourning blouse. I only got the front and back yokes and lace insets in that time but it was 8 lace insets! And my first 8, mind you.

I need to share a photo as my work is quite even and pretty. I was careful which is why it took so long. I plan on beading it with black beads in the shape of lily of the valley. And lace ruffles in ever possible seam.  It's a long project.

It was meant entirely for me to remember those I lost. To work diligently through my grief. Also, as I get older, these things are happening more - I need to be prepared.

I plan on putting a fair amount of work into the buttons. I was thinking black on black embroidery or those woven Dorset (?) buttons. I need smaller rings if that's the case but I should have something lying about.

I am making a lot of accessories at the moment. Except like, garment accessories. Ruffles, flounces, sleeves, plackets - lots of pieces. All I know will fit into something since I have my blocks sorted. That's what's really great about that. Since I have now perfected my armhole and shoulder for sleeves I actually like sleeves (when sewn by me, rtw still digs) I can just make all sorts of fun sleeves and whenever I make up a shirt I can pop them in.

I have learned to stop listening to people's complaints online. Not as in ignoring but as in realizing I'm not the same. I like inserting sleeves. I like making bound buttonholes and hand buttonholes.

I like a lot of things people hate with sewing. I even love finding and tracing my size in a pile of lines! Gimme a black and white nightmare puzzle anyday! I'll find that piece you need!

No photos yet cause I can't be arsed :). Laundry is taking a surprising amount out of me today.oh drrr I forgot my meds.

Whoops!

My keyboard broke and so I couldn't post! Expect daily updates once more.

(Who am I even talking to?)

I got a new phone with a WAY better camera now so the photos will be plenty! And downloading new apps is easier so if sh*t breaks i can fix it!

Nothing new and still no photos

But lots of work done nonetheless! Truthfully that's why I never kept a blog because it was so hard to write and upload when I was sewing! I still need a new app so I can get to the photos part.

I have left my pants in a naughty corner to let them know how they hurt me and my houndstooth coat is now hanging /behind/ my multiple mannequins because I needed it for pinning. Its still there. Staring at me like 'all you need to do is a rolled collar. Wtf is wrong with you?'

I've made like idk 8 muslins of the simplicity tops. I think I have more fun designing it than actually matching any design to any fabric.

I had wanted to turn my embroidered hummingbird into a gathered neck short sleeve but now I don't like that design.  The fabric is so gorgeous but its suited to a more fitted design. Grr. I don't need to start ANOTHER coat I'll leave hanging til Fall (thank goodness I stay stitch EVERYTHING when I have the energy).

I've told myself not to feel guilty about unfinished projects - I do seem to take them back out eventually!

Maybe I should actually pick a fabric and adjust my pattern so I can make an actual thing. Seems logical.

Oh well at least the majority of my fabric and supplies were free and nothing cost more than $7.

Simplicity 8523

I'm in LOVE with this pattern and o haven't even technically made anything from it. I have made like 4 muslins. Trust me, it's purple dolphin sheets - its not a wearable muslin lol.

But it fits so well! I suspect slightly the 14 and 12 would have the same shoulder but either way the fit is basically what I wanted anyway. I can always trim it half an inch all around if I want it tighter.

This pattern LENDS itself to be altered. The only thing that would be nicer is seam allowance marks (the seam allowance is 5/8 BTW it is hard to find).

But the basic tshirt-in-woven-with-dart is perfect for making aaaanything. It has multiple neckline options and if its big enough the back can br cut on a fold.

But if you want something close to the neck (or lined) you can keep the seam. The sides and darts provide shaping. The darts are basic bust from side seam so they're easy to rotate, move and alter. The neckline options are four even though it didn't need them its handy! Scoop, about 1" away from neck, square and V. I haven't used V yet but it does seem low I'll get back to you.

The sleeves work so you can use the sleeve in the sleeveless armhole. Its a good size for the combo and the size of my arms (which are thick). The sleeves do have enough ease that even the line drawings show them looking almost pleated but I can fix that. It would really be a perfect pattern with no sleeve cap ease. I'm so used to it from Lekala (no movement problems ever) that I forgot big 4 had sleeve cap ease.  However the sleeve is the perfect length and shape for altering.

The ease in the waist for me is like 13.5 ease but I don't mind that. The suggestion is 11. The extra feels nice on the 14 and the 12 would be half an inch off suggestion anyway.

Its nice that's written on there!

All my alterations have come out exactly as I want. I just need to apply these changes to fashion fabrics and all my wovens ever will finally be able to be tops!!!

There will be v necks. Bias fronts! Linens! Cottons! Silks! Ruffles! Sleeves!

Still no photos!

I still haven't changed apps. This blog is for me anyway so who needs them just yet!

I still haven't finished any of my coats but there's not quite a need just yet. To be honest the gray and burgundy look so nice on the mannequin half made.

I made a couple more undies for my partner, this time sizing up. Kwik Sew 2723, the bicycle shorts but done in cotton and viscose knits with boxer elastic (I also found that in it's packaging while salvaging!). This time a size medium, which will fit a lot better.

I am working on my zip pants but holy hell they like to streeeetch. The elastic in this is ridiculous. It goes like 6x its width when stretched, so I've twisted a leg seam. Great.

I wanted to embroider the pockets to match the shoes but I lost the shoes!! Genius work! Not that I could hem it anyway. I prepared the zips with little gold seahorses.

Stashes

I was reading other blogs about stashes and I know mine is  bit much. Put it this way, the only person who's stash makes me feel better is Carolyn from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic. You should really check her out; there's always more to read each week.

I have collected so much. I don't have any need to purchase anything more than yet again more black knit. My shop is sold out and its a gamble what they get in (they're the Queens of overstocked random stuff for cheap). I traded for it when I was only salvaging and lately I've been using old black shirts friends gave me. I'm still running out though. I like my bright prints but there's always 1 or 2 metres and nothing matches anything else. I have found black cottons, linens and knits to be my most used item.

I have roughly 1000m of fabric by guess. I know there's at least ten lengths of 8m alone in the bottom quarter of a box I have. I have eight boxes. Plus two double sized with less than 1m scraps. Then I still have the shelves. Even estimating the boxes 'only' have 100m in each (more likely 150-200 and 500 for the slippery fabrics) its still over 1000 metres. 

I set aside a box of about 40m of fabric and 25 of my top patterns to set aside a 'project box' of things I want to work on sooner. All my fabrics as still visible and sorted by type: two boxes of bottom weight, 1 1 1/2 boxes sheers, one box linens one box tissue knits one thick etc and on and on...

I forot to mention the six boxes under my bed of 'favourites' and my bin of muslin fabrics. (!!!!!)

Which by the way I make muslins now? Who knew right?? But the second I went wait, I can alter this directly then KEEP THE PERFECT DRAFT --AS-- MY PATTERN??

I know. I'm slow. I now just make a muslin of the closest thing I want, pin out/sew in what I want, add seam allowances, test it out, tweak tweak, BAM your muslin just became your pattern for every iteration you make. They fold well and you can put them on different fabrics to make them easily findable. Plus they don't slide around? And pin well? Sign me up for muslin making!

So you may not be as surprised to now know I made two muslins of my zipper ankle skinny jeans (I'd say they're skinny, not cigarette)

I'm already super excited about the fit. No questioning. They'll look ace. I already use the top half regularly for all my other pants.

I knew inba stretch front pockets not to the zip would add bulk so all I did was make them out of a soft silk like probably poly fabric I found somewhere once. It was purple in the light but installed in the pants it has this dusty pink appearance much like 'I bought this in a boutique' which is weird for my normal style.

I haven't even checked the contest rules. Should I not even have started? Is it already over. Oh I'm good. I might have to make an entire new thing for that if I goofed!

But I have a huuuuge stash and a lot of patterns and soon, pinstripe skinny stretch suit pants with silk pockets (cuz if its made of suiting it's no longer jeans is it?)

Basics

I think I prefer sewing basics, because that's what I've really noticed I got joy out of.

Sometimes I let group mentality get to me and comments like 'more frosting than cake' and comments on people hating basics became engrained in me.

So did pants making!

Turns out I love both. I adore the concept of taking an hour tops (haha tops) to make a basic you'll wear twice a week. In one afternoon I was able to make a weeks worth of undies in 3 different styles! (I still prefer the panties that come with the Watson. I just prefer a third piece for my gusset which a lot of patterns skip.)

I made four pairs of undies for my partner as well. A Kwik Sew pattern for bicycle shorts that had the seamlines they wanted. I should have gone up a size but these fit for now. I can always make more in another afternoon.

I want to make more simple basic tank tops. They're easy, they fit well, I can have all different colours and types and they take like twenty minutes plus or minus cutting time. I even switch around between folding and sewing, FOE, lingerie elastic. And ribbing depending on my mood.

I'm hoping to increase the front a wee bit and make a top with a knit back and woven front. The burda tiny pocket is just too flappy for me.

I entered a sewing comp which is to match a clothing item to your shoes and I have these gorgeous embroidered black leather bootie heels that I could use some black pinstripe ankle zip cigarette pants to go with. I have the fabric. I have the pattern... I just need to adjust it.

Hmm.

A few things done, but none of them a cardigan.

I got most of my cardigan done but when I got go blind pad stitching the collar roll I decided to make a few fun things.

I finished four pairs of undies. I tried a new (to me) Ooh Lala pattern for a golden front brief but it just came out looking like a frilly pink diaper. I suppose I stick to certain patterns for a reason! Though if I'm going to be using the Watson undies I need to go up a size or two. But I like the shape.

Although since undies are basically 'trim all the edges in frilly sh*t' you can basically make them any shape once you have the base size down.

I don't really need the cardigan just yet its still ridiculously hot. Though for some reason I also started a burdastyle pullover. The pleated low sleeved one from last years workout/ALLTHEKNITS issue.

I thought the tiny pocket tee from Burdastyle would be a t&t but it just looks like a misshaped cape from the back and I don't like it. I also ALWAYS manage to screw up the neckline. I hate ribbed necklines. I always get them near perfect, go to fix that one last little wibble and BAM overlocker eats the whole thing.

So I have a few undies finished for like sixteen hours of sewing off and on. But I have half a jacket, most of  bra (forgot go mention that! I'm trying out an Ooh Lala bra as a swimsuit to match some undies and  tank top I made from someone's scrapped and donated skirt - these two panels are going FAR!), four undies, two more cut out and an unfinished jumper.

I wonder if I'll actually finish any of these.

Phew

I'm continuing with the cardigan but I'm kidding myself if this is The One.  Its easy for a jacket. But for a cardigan? Unlined? To have a hand tailored rolled neckline? And interfacing?

Luckily I have a gorgeous drapey interfacing and this is a solid knit not meant to stretch much anyway. I did interface both sides of the collar.

I've basically worked non stop on it for six hours minus time go eat pancakes.

I was thinking of taking a break...by making denim shorts.

Vogue cont

I did start making that cardigan. I decided on maroon collar facing and sleeve so it looks faaaabulous with the gray houndstooth. I could tell when I unfolded it that it would fit me nicely and as I put it together it still seems the case!

I have it all cut out and the entire back done and the darts on the front threadtraced

The houndstooth was a salvage but the maroon I bought YEARS ago now.

Oop Very Easy Vogue 8547

I haven't started Vogue 8547 yet but its a gorgeous seventies jacket pattern. It says suitable for knits which we all know is a bit of a joke for the 70s but I think it'll make a suitable base for the cardigan TNT I've been after.

I have a fairly stable gray hounds tooth knit that's dying to be this coat.

Bonus: I never need shoulder pads!

Grape Jam

The grape vine is ripening so I did manage five jars of grape jam and a few pairs of undies out of old shirts for the day. I'll call that a win.

Fabric Shop

I did decide to go to the fabric shop. I got two metres of black linen, a cheap 2m wide striped cotton knit. My 'lady' is still out of black cotton knit after her last sale.

So summary

2m black linen $18
2m white stripe $10
Rotary cutter blades $9
10m bright aqua speckled trim - $4.40
4.9m of light blue striped linen piping - $4.20
1m stretch lace (the kind for undies) $6
5m bra plush elastic in black - $2.50

One of my most expensive visits in two years honestly.

The Truth

The truth seems to be I can't post any articles with photos if I use the Blogger app! I'll have to get a better app. I did hear of these issues from others.

But I said I'd update at least for me and I will dammit.

I have my partners pants pattern traced on my recycled plastic. I'll be transferring it to cloth later today.

I've been using a large roll of recycled plastic packaging I got from Reverse Garbage back before I did my own salvaging. Although it has a lot of benefits one drawback was storage. If they wrinkled they were useless.

So now I transfer a great deal of my t&t patterns to fabric, usually old sheets or muslin, with notes directly on the fabric. For things I make often this is extremely helpful. I keep my altered muslin with all its new edits ready to slap on fabric and cut out more. The thickness of the cloth means pins and weights are nearly (but not entirely!) unnecessary. Just a few on the curves or on particularly slippy fabric and were good to go!

I also found this last year I MUCH prefer cutting on a single layer. I will use extra muslin I have from salvaging (there's a lot - like 300m worth of different fabrics perfect for muslins including actual muslin of varying weights) and cut out both sides of an 'on the fold' piece.

Laying out one length of fabric is much easier to preserve fabric and line up...well..everything. Pattern. Grain. I just HATE lining up two sides of grain perfectly. I often am one or two threads off and that's enough to bug me.

So I bought men's and women's jeans kwik sew patterns (the real basic ones) for my partner and I but it seems the female one was fine for both of us.

It's a good thing it has finished measurements on the pattern pieces because I don't get this ease sh*t with pattern companies. And usually KS isn't so bad.

The women's STRETCH jeans have 10cm (roughly four inches) of ease but the men's non stretch ones have half an inch. What?  Shouldn't stretch denim have negative ease? Annnnyway. I have it set to my EXACT measurements so I can use whatever I want.

I have been buying fabric again but its been really picky. I only want cheap and good since I can find anything now. Ha!

Updates

I finally downloaded the Blogger app so I can update this thing regularly. I plan on at least posting a few updates a week even if its without photos just to have a documentation of my projects.

I've been sewing a lot, actually, and salvaging all my fabric like I promised I would. I even salvaged all my threads and trims.

I have found no difference in quality when it came to thread. In fact I found my previously purchased ones to be weaker than even wooden spooled (vintage) ones I'd found.

I've gone through over 20 spools of thread and two over locker cones! I was light on the over locker this year but plan on putting it back in force next year.

I have gotten my T&Ts sorted this year for a button up (Lekala), my fave pants and shorts (a Kwik Sew pattern I will share later this week), my racerback tank tops I always wear (from a New Look PJ pattern mixed with a vintage simplicity) and my fave underthings (Cloth Habit, Burda, Ooh Lala and a sewing book I checked out from the library I'll need to find again).

I have gone from trying to make fancy things or be anything I'm not to actually making stuff I wear. Which is shorts, tank tops, gym clothes, and boots most days.

However because of this I found I want to go out more. Now I have cute clothes my size I actually wear (and yes, still salvaged!) so I want to make nicer clothes again soon.

Now I have to go unpick the sleeves of my next blouse because no matter how many times I make the same pattern, I can't stop making mistakes! (This one involved an unfortunate accident with a missed dart)

(And now blogger won't let me add a photo...)